Aqua Articles

By Rona Limsy

If you want to know exactly what your cat is being fed each day, then the best way is to prepare a homemade cat food recipe yourself. However, for your cat to remain healthy, it is important to ensure that your homemade cat food recipe includes sufficient animal protein, calcium, phosphorus, iodine and vitamins. This is usually obtained from red meat, liver, kidney, heart, chicken and sometimes milk.

Generally, raw food contains more nutrients as cooking destroys some vitamins, especially vitamin B. If you are squeamish about feeding raw food to your cat and intend to feed your cat cooked food instead, then you may need to provide pet food supplements in your cat”s diet. Your vet will be able to advise you on appropriate pet food supplements, based on your homemade cat food diet.

Here are some important ingredients which you should incorporate into your homemade cat food diet:

INGREDIENT #1 – Meat and Meat By-Products

Both red and white meat contains protein, B-group vitamins, fat and energy. Highest sources of protein are beef, chicken (meat) and liver, followed by heart, chicken skin, lamb, kidney and chicken necks.

All types of meat are deficient in vitamin A therefore, it is good to feed liver to your cat as it is rich in vitamin A. However, liver should not be more than 10% of your cat food diet as too much vitamin A can lead to skeletal problems and other abnormal bone growth. If you are worried about an overdose of vitamin A, feed cooked liver to your cat instead of raw liver. Or as a rough guide, feed raw liver not more than once a week.

INGREDIENT #2 – Fish

It is good to have a mix of the 2 main types of fish: white fish and fatty/oily fish (such as tuna). White fish is leaner but is weak in vitamins A, D, E and K.

Fatty and oily fish on the other hand, contain high levels of vitamins A and D but your cat may suffer a case of steatites (a painful inflammation of fat deposits under the skin) if it is fed too much fatty fish.

In the case of fish, it is advisable to cook the fish first. Raw fish contains thiaminase, an enzyme which destroys thiamine, an important vitamin B. Cooking destroys thiaminase and helps to retain more vitamins in the food.

Whole fish (including the bones) is very nutritional cat food as fish bones contain calcium and phosphorus. However, to prevent fish bones from getting caught in your cat”s teeth or throat, it is good to soften the bones first. You can do this by pressure cooking, boiling or stewing.

INGREDIENT #3 – Eggs

Eggs are high in animal protein, iron, vitamins, fats and carbohydrates and are ideal to include in your homemade cat food. However, too much may be harmful as the egg whites contain avidin which destroys a B vitamin that is essential for good hair and skin health and proper muscle function.

As a general guide, feed raw egg not more than once a week. If you feed the egg yolk only, then you may increase this to no more than 3 times a week.

INGREDIENT #4 – Milk, Cheese and Yoghurt

Dairy products are high in protein, fat, carbohydrate, calcium, phosphorus, vitamin A and the B vitamins.

Kittens generally like warmed milk and cream. But as they mature, they become lactose-intolerant and may develop diarrhea. You can get low-lactose cat milk which is available in supermarkets. Cream is fattening and too much may result in an obese cat.

Cheese may be a better dairy alternative as it does not contain lactose. However, some cats do not appreciate the taste and will not eat it.

INGREDIENT #5 – Fats and Oils

Fats are essential in your homemade cat food to ensure your cat”s skin doesn”t become itchy, dry and scurfy.

Good sources are safflower or corn oil and fish fats. Safflower is the preferred choice.

INGREDIENT #6 – Vegetables

Vegetables provide vitamin C and some are rich in B vitamins. It also provides fibre which should form about 5% of your homemade cat food diet. Mix vegetables with meat or fish and cook it as a stew. Most cats will eat the vegetables if cooked this way.

INGREDIENT #7 – Grains

Grains provide carbohydrate, proteins, minerals and vitamins. Good sources are:

Wheatgerm – thiamine, vitamin E
Yeast – B vitamins, minerals, recommended for older cats
Rice – most cats will eat this and it is a good base for mixing with meat and fish
Wheat, oats, barley – higher protein content and less fattening than rice

INGREDIENT #8 – Water

Lastly, and probably more important than any of the above, a fresh clean supply of water must always be available. Generally, your cat will need about 40ml of water per kg of body weight. However, environmental temperature, your cat”s consumption of dry food and ailments may require you to adjust accordingly.

Your cat is an individual and will have its own likes and dislikes. Different pedigrees may also have different requirements. It is always advisable to check with your vet and seek professional advice before preparing your homemade cat food.

About The Author

For more information on giving the best cat care for your cat, visit http://www.My-Pet-Cat.com

By Rona Limsy

For many new cat owners, the first time a cat goes into heat is usually a worrying situation. As a cat in heat exhibits behavior which may be similar to a sick cat or a cat in pain, many cat owners think their cat is unwell, when in fact their female cat is simply in heat.

Are you surprised if I tell you that your female cat will be in heat for most of her life, until she is spayed? A cat reaches sexual maturity by 5 months of age and from then on, will be in heat for the rest of her life, unless she is spayed, old or unwell.

The only time a healthy female cat is not in heat is when she is pregnant. She will stay in heat until she is mated. Once she is mated (usually with several toms), ovulation takes place (shedding of the egg from the ovary, 1 egg per kitten). Pregnancy lasts between 56 to 63 days.

Cats go into heat more often during the warmer months, from February through September. However, in countries where there are no seasonal cycles, a female cat can be in heat throughout the year in between pregnancies!

SIGNS THAT YOUR CAT IS IN HEAT
There is a distinct change in behavior when your cat goes into heat. You will find her meowing and yowling in a tone you have never heard before. She may also not eat as well as her usual appetite and may act as if she”s in pain.

Some cats in heat are excessively friendly and will roll around on the ground when you play with her or pet her. When rubbed on her back, she will raise her hindquarters and tread with her hind limbs.

WHAT TO DO WHEN YOUR CAT IS IN HEAT

This really depends on what you are keeping your cat for. Is she a pet companion for you or are you keeping her in order to breed cats?

Keeping Your Cat As A Pet
If you are keeping her as a pet, do consider spaying her. The main considerations for doing this is whether you have the resources to take care of a new litter of kittens every few months. Are you able to find her kittens good homes and if not, are you able to take care of them yourself? Many kittens are put down by humane organizations because cat owners are unable to take care of them or to find homes for them.

If you are decide against spaying, then simply allowing your female cat outdoors will attract a roaming tom cat that will mate with her. Your female is likely to mate with a few toms before she goes out of heat. Do be prepared for the fights (which will probably keep you up for quite a few nights) happening between 2 or more tom cats for the right to mate with her!

Keeping Your Cat To Breed
If you are keeping your cat for breeding, try to delay the mating until she is at least one year old. Breeding is usually better if a cat is allowed to mature first.

If your cat is pedigree, make sure to keep her indoors. Tom cats from miles away (some of dubious pedigrees) are attracted by the yowling of a female cat in heat and will wait outside your home for the first chance to mate.

Consult a registered breeder to arrange for a suitable mate for your female cat. Do take a look at the tom before sending your cat to him. Ensure that the tom is vaccinated and certified free from disease.

It is advisable to bring your cat to the tom, as some toms may be distracted by an unfamiliar environment. Your cat in heat may also attack toms that are suddenly introduced to their territory.

About The Author

For more information on giving the best cat care, visit http://www.My-Pet-Cat.com

By Matthew Homfray

They say we are what we eat. This applies to your pet as much as it applies to yourself. A good diet means less health problems, less trips to the vet and lower veterinary bills. But how much thought have you given to what your cat should be eating to maintain optimum health? Ask yourself the following questions.

1) How many times a day do you feed your cat?

Since cats cannot be exercised like dogs can, the only way you can influence your cats weight is by controlling the amount and type of food he or she eats. If the cat is being fed individual meals several times daily, there is often a tendency by the owner to offer the daily supply of food on several occasions rather than divide up the daily feed into several meals. This can also occur with cats fed dry food ad lib. Cats usually regulate their food intake, but continual exposure to large quantities of food may lead to over-eating and subsequent obesity if too many calories are consumed. In short, both several individual meals a day and ad lib feeding are fine, it is the total amount offered per 24 hour period which is the important figure.

Kittens should be fed small meals at regular intervals due to their tiny stomachs. Four or five meals are recommended at eight weeks of age, decreasing to two at six months of age.

2) Is your cats diet manufactured specifically for cats or do you give human food?

Some cat owners like to spoil their cat by feeding them human food as the bulk of their diet. Others have tried feeding their cat regular catfood, but find their fussy cat will not touch it, and prefers to wait for the inevitable human food offering, which soon becomes the staple diet.

Is it really unhealthy to feed cats human food though? Of course it depends what food. Remember that cats are carnivores, and require a high proportion of meat in their diet. They simply cannot adapt to a low protein diet, and will lose bodyweight if deprived of it. In fact, as a species they are relatively unique… a deficiency of the amino acid, arginine, in a single meal can lead to symptoms of lethargy, hypersalivation and vocalisation. Arginine is required by the cat to produce urea, a waste product resulting from the breakdown of protein.

Another essential nutrient for the cat is the amino acid, taurine, which the cat cannot manufacture sufficiently by itself to meet its needs. The cat”s diet must therefore contain taurine in sufficient quantities. If a deficiency develops there is a high risk of serious and irreversible damage to major organs such as the heart and the eye. Taurine is found almost entirely in meat, confirming the fact that the cat is a compulsory carnivore.

Another disease of nutritional origin is that caused by cats eating raw liver regularly, who can suffer from a condition called hypervitaminosis A. Cats suffering from this can present with signs of lethargy, unthriftiness, a stiff neck and other skeletal problems. To play it safe, do not feed your cat liver more than once a week.

Reputable cat foods are formulated after extensive trials by pet food companies to provide the mixture of protein, carbohydrate and fat that suits feline physiology best. It is easier, cheaper and possibly more healthy for your cat to be fed a reputable cat food diet, with occasional treats if desired (tuna, liver etc).

3) Which is better out of dry cat food or wet cat food?

Most vets recommend complete dry biscuit based cat food. This is because studies have shown that cats on dry food diets are less likely to suffer from dental disease than those on wet food from a tin or pouch. The physical motion of biting these biscuits helps prevent tartar from adhering to the surface of the tooth. However, even cats with no teeth can eat biscuit based food without a problem, as they just scoop up the biscuits with their tongue and swallow them whole. Another advantage of dry food is that it does not spoil as quickly which is useful for cats that are fed ad lib.

There are occasionally reasons why a wet food is preferable, as a method to increase the water consumption in a cat with a urinary problem such as cystitis.

4) Which is the best cat food to choose?

There are so many different brands of cat food on the market, the best one is basically a matter of opinion. Certainly palatability is a factor, there is no point in purchasing a particular food if your cat cannot stand it, although this is occasionally a necessity in cats requiring prescription diets. Rather than recommending you a specific brand, we suggest that you choose one which adheres to the criteria below.

Cat foods labeled as complete and balanced must meet standards established by the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO), either by meeting a nutrient profile or by passing a feeding trial. There are now two separate nutrient profiles for cats – one for growth (kittens) and one for maintenance (adults). Maximum levels of intake of some nutrients have been established for the first time because of the concern that overnutrition, rather than undernutrition, is a bigger problem with many pet foods today. The standards include recommendations on protein, fat, fat soluble vitamins, water soluble vitamins, and mineral content of foods. If you are prepared to get technical, you should choose a food that comes closest to AAFCO recommendations.

In summary, consider the following points:

Choose a food that suits your cats age. Most big pet food companies will have different foods for kittens vs adults. Cats with medical conditions may be recommended special prescription diets.

Choose a food that come closest to AAFCO recommendations.

The ingredients contains the truth about a particular food. Everything else is there only for marketing purposes.

There are no legal and scientific definitions for the terms “premium,” “super premium,” “quality,” or “natural.”

Use dry matter numbers to evaluate and compare foods.

The source of ingredients (e.g. animal vs vegetable) does not matter, except in the case of food allergies.

Avoid supplementation. All commercial cat foods have more than enough protein, fat, vitamins, and minerals. Feeding your cat a good food incorrectly can lead to significant problems.

5) My cat is overweight, but no matter how hard I try I cannot get him to lose weight. What can I do?

Your cat is almost certainly being fed too much. Below some common mistakes are listed. Have a good look at these and make sure none of them could apply to your cat.

Not following the guidelines on the packet when measuring a portion. Most cat foods will have a table on the packaging suggesting daily portions for cats of different weights. The weight of food suggested is per 24 hrs, not per portion! Use your kitchen weighing scales to measure out the portion until you are sure of the correct amount.

Using a complete dry diet as a replacement for regular biscuits, and mixing it with wet cat food. If it says complete, you should not mix it with anything or you will overfeed.

Offering inappropriate food that is high in fat, or cream/full fat milk to drink.

Several members of the household feeding the cat at different times, whenever the cat is meows for food.

Giving the cat regular treats in addition to its main meal.

The cat is getting fed by neighbors, who think they are being kind by feeding it and enjoy the attention it gives them.

The cat is scavenging food from outside sources, such as other peoples bins.

The cat is part of a multi-cat household and is stealing food from the other cat(s), or even the dog.
Keep an open mind. If there is a possibility that any of the above scenarios might be the case with your cat, investigate it. If you are still at a loss, consider starting a prescription diet (see below).

6) I have heard you can get special light diets, or prescription diets for fat cats. Do they really work?

Yes they do, if used properly. These types of cat food are available in complete wet (tinned or pouches) form or dry (biscuit) form, and are growing in popularity amongst conscientious pet owners. They are low in calories and high in fibre, and often contain high levels of L-carnitine. L-carnitine has been used to help with fat metabolism in other species and recent scientific work indicates that it helps reduce weight in overweight dogs and cats. The real benefit of these low calorie diets though is that because of its low calories, cats can still eat reasonable sized portions and therefore feel full. This means they are more content and less likely to beg and look for extra food.
These diets are perfectly healthy for normal sized cats to eat too, so if you have a multi cat household and it is unfeasible to separate the cats during feeding time, you can safely feed all of the cats the prescription diet together.

7) Where can I buy this low calorie food from?

Many of the big pet food companies are waking up to the problem of pet obesity, and adding light versions to their range. However, they are unlikely to be as effective as the traditional prescription diets that are on the market.

They are known as prescription diets, because they are a specialist food normally prescribed by a veterinarian. However, you do not need a prescription to buy the food as it is a general sales list product. These foods are rarely available in supermarkets as many supermarkets are keen to sell their own brand, or have deals with the big pet food manufacturers. Many owners but their prescription diet from their veterinary clinic for convenience, whilst others prefer to shop around to get the best price. Many online pharmacies and pet stores are now offering these prescription foods, but whilst they may appear cheaper online, watch out for delivery charges added on top.

About The Author

Dr Matthew Homfray is one of the veterinary pet experts at www.WhyDoesMyPet.com. Our dedicated community of caring pet experts are waiting to offer you advice, second opinions and support.

By Matthew Homfray

For most people, exercising a dog consists of a trip to the park for a run around. In some cases this might suffice, but responsible owners should be aware of the quantity and quality of exercise that their dog needs to maintain optimum health. Ask yourself the following questions.

1) How often does your dog get exercised?

It does not take a genius to work out that you put on weight if you do not burn off the calories that you ingest. Exercise is extremely important to the health and well being of your dog. Fit dogs are happier, more active, more mobile and less susceptible to health problems such as arthritis, ligament ruptures and heart disease. With such huge individual variation between breeds and ages, we cannot recommend a set amount of exercise that each dog should have, but all dogs require at least one walk a day, with the more athletic ones requiring two.

2) What type of exercise does your dog do?

Whilst a walk or two a day may be perfectly adequate exercise for your dog, there is huge benefit to be had from mixing it up a bit and trying out new activities. Adding variety to a dogs exercise routine provides extra physical and mental challenges that can be both interesting and rewarding for both dog and owner. If your dog has any medical conditions (e.g. heart problem, arthritis) you must consult a veterinary professional before adding any unfamiliar exercises. Here we look at various types of exercise possible.

- Walking & Hiking
The most common form of exercise for dogs. Always have your dog on a lead unless you are in a park or rural area without traffic. Beware the potential existence of other dogs in public places that may be irresponsibly raised and show aggression to your pooch.

- Jogging
Getting your dog to run alongside you and adjust to fluctuations in your speed will require a little training, but if you are a keen jogger it is a great way of exercising your dog. Make sure you choose a pace that is comfortable for your dog, and only attempt jogging if you and your dog are able to walk briskly for 30 minutes without tiring.

- Cycling
This is fantastic if you have access to the countryside where your dog can run safely off the lead. Also great for athletic dogs that need to run greater distances than you do to achieve a proper workout. If you wish to cycle with your dog in urban areas, he or she must have impeccable lead manners and ideally respond to commands such as left and right. Cycling early in the morning when there is less traffic is wise, and avoid busy roads.

- Inline skating
Skating, like cycling, means athletic dogs often get the chance to run to their hearts content. However, since you cannot go on grass and are concrete bound, it is only really suitable with a dog in a park, where you do not have the worry of traffic. Your dog should be taught commands such as slow and stop, and only let off the lead if he or she is ultra obedient. Using a harness rather than a lead affords greater control in this exercise.

- Jump & fetch
Getting your dog to jump and fetch a ball can provide hours of entertainment and is excellent exercise. Make sure the ball is not small enough to be accidentally swallowed. Also synthetic toys such as balls are far safer than sticks, which can fragment in the dogs mouth and get stuck in their throat.

- Frisbee
Playing frisbee is great fun for some dogs, but you need to have a large garden or a park nearby where your dog can run freely off the lead. This is great for the lazy person as you are pretty much stationary while your dog has a full workout. Clearly not all dogs are willing or able to catch the frisbee, so only those breeds that pick up the knack are suitable. Playing frisbee should be avoided in dogs with teeth or mouth problems, and also in dogs with joint problems and those susceptible to cruciate ligament damage.

- Circuit & agility
Those familiar with obedience competitions will be well aware of the fun and satisfaction to be had doing this activity. You and your dog run around a series of obstacles, aiming to pass through each without a problem. Courses often consist of bar jumps (hurdles of varying heights according to the breed), a tunnel (usually about 3 feet long), a ramp and a slalom (5 or more bars in a row). The key when starting out is to reward your dog enthusiastically for doing each obstacle with treats. You should lead him through the obstacle course, teaching him to respond to instructions such as Up!, and body language, for example the outstretched palm of your hand meaning Stop!

- Swimming
Swimming is one of the best exercises there is for both you and your dog, as you are using every muscle in the body. If you are lucky enough to have somewhere where you and your dog are both permitted to swim, and is also safe, then this is a highly beneficial activity. If you are swimming in the sea, make sure a lifeguard is around just in case, and be aware that cold water and current both increase the effort required as more calories are burned. Swimming is particularly beneficial for dogs with arthritis and other joint problems as it builds muscular strength without placing strain on the joints.

- Football
Start the game by kicking the ball slowly along the ground towards your dog, and encourage him to get it. Because the ball is too large to pick up in his or her mouth, it will take him or her some time to realize that it must be pushed with either the nose or the paws. Give praise and encouragement as he or she gets the hang of it. Small breeds can be offered a smaller rubber ball rather than a football. Make sure the ball is not small enough to be swallowed though.

About The Author

Dr Matthew Homfray is one of the veterinary pet experts at www.WhyDoesMyPet.com. Our dedicated community of caring pet experts are waiting to offer you advice, second opinions and support.

By Leo Enoch

A lot of people blame the breed of the dog as the cause of their aggression. These causes people to no longer enjoy the breed they love. Where the fact is that people cannot distinguished the difference at all between assertiveness and breeding rights with aggression

There is a public outcry against vicious and aggressive dogs. In some countries, and in some states, the Pit Bull, Rottweiler, Argentine Dogo, American Staffordshire Terrier and others have been banned or have been required to wear muzzles whenever they are in public.

Why? Do you mean all these dogs are bad dogs. Where in actually reality there are no such things as bad dogs, what we have are bad owners and bad breeders which causes the public to go against these dogs.

If you just open up your eyes to observe, you will start seeing American Pit Bull Terrier and other so called “Viscious Dogs” that has gone through dog training in search and rescue resulted in this pit bull working very hard at its job, and is very successful even around children.

But because of their reputation, people tend not to see their gentle side traits.

One of the common misunderstanding of dog aggression is when you as the owner is not able to establish the dog position in the family. As dog is pack animal, it will try to find its standing in the hierachy.

Since children are at eye level with the dog, it makes perfect sense the dog will first challenge them on its first level and proceed up until it find its standing.

It is the responsibility of you the owner and as the leader to establish and make your dog understand that their position is at the lower end of this pecking order. Family first, dog last.

Establishing this fact that is clearly understood by your dog will definitely solve a lot of your dog”s aggression issues.

Another common mistakes that many owners make, that actually train their dog to have the aggression behavior problem is when they encourage aggressive behavior.

Playing tug-of-war or wrestling games encourages the dog to attempt to “best”, or “win out” over the owner, which can result in the beginning of a dominance aggression problem.

This again goes back to being establishing the position of the dog in the family, by encouraging such activity, you would destroy the establishment of his rank in the family.

When dogs are encouraged to “go get ”em” or to bark and dash about in response to outside noises or the approach of a person, territorial and protective aggressive behavior may be the result.

So aggression behavior can be changed with proper dog training and right establishment of the dog”s ranking in the pack.

So it is my encouragment for all of us to start seeing things from the other side of the coin, some of these called “Viscious Breed” are really not and they are some of the most wonderous companion to be around with.

Even, if you get them with aggression problem, you can still re-train them and they can be transform to obedience and most wonderful dogs you can ever have.

About The Author

For Free Information and Tips on Proven, Simple and Effective Dog Training Leo Enoch highly recommended You visit:

www.DogTrainingSolution.com

By Stephen Dolan

Dog collars come in a variety of materials, colors, styles and even functions. There”s the obedience or choke collar, bark control collars, flea collars, and a whole array of just good old plain pet collars. So which one do you choose?

Collars are also useful for controlling your dog, as they provide a handle for grabbing.

But once your best friend has stopped barking or if barking has never been a difficulty what do you need to consider in a canine collar?

The Different Dog Collars?

Electronic collars are also called remote collars or shock collars by those that don”t like them. The idea behind these collars is to deliver an electric shock to the dog as a correction. A low-level shock is given at first but if the canine continues to disobey the intensity is increased.

The buckle collar has a ring for you to attach the city hound license and other identification tags. Should your best friend accidentally get lost, this collar and the attached tags will help him get back home.

Used by multiple people to control hard to handle dogs, the prong or pinch collar lies flat on your pet”s neck until you need to give some correction or he pulls on the leash. The pressure on the leash will cause the blunt metal prongs to pinch your best friend”s neck. This collar can be very effective, but it should never be used without the supervision of a qualified trainer. Poorly used this collar can cause more problems than it solves.

Quick Release collars are fundamentally flat nylon buckle collars with a plastic closure. This clip is similar to some luggage strap fasteners and makes getting the collar on and off a little easier.

Dog Collar Uses

While wearing a head collar, your a dog can still pant, bark, drink and eat, even bite. The action of the leash when correcting your best friend is very different with a head collar verses any of the other training devices. So it”s important that you receive proper instruction on its use from a qualified trainer. A head collar is considered to be more humane than a pinch or slip collar.

While some trainers will use flat buckle type collars, especially on puppies, these collars do not always provide the best control for more unruly dogs.

Anything other than a quick-release collar or a flat buckle can only be used during training sessions.

You should aim to get away from using the training collar. If your best friend only responds when wearing a training collar then he”s not really been trained.

A break away collar is special quick-release collar that will unclip if a strong tug is made on the collar. This is a safety feature so that your best friend does not choke if the collar gets caught up on something. The collar will not unclip when it”s attached to the leash.

For hunting dogs Canine Tracking systems are also very helpful in finding dogs that are lost. Dog tracking collars are used when you are out hunting with your best friend. They can be used by houndsmen, upland bird hunters, beaglers, coon hunters, field trial (bird dogs) and hog hunting.

One of the essentials of a dog collar is to make sure that it”s personalized and has your best friend”s name and your contact details on it. This will make it easy for someone to get in touch with you if your pet gets lost or strays. It can also help keep your dog calm in a distressing situation. Your dog is lost and while he may be amongst strangers, they will know his name from his collar and he”ll feel less threatened if called by name.

About The Author

Steve Dolan is a dog lover and long time dog owner. For more information about dog collars and tags click Dog Collars and Tags, and for more about dog health and keeping your dog happy click Dogs and Puppies Online.

By Stephen Dolan

By observing your pet, you will have a better idea of what product to look for as his daily comfortable resting place. If you adopted a dog from the pound he may actually prefer his own place. So a dog bed is really necessary, but what type do you get and what should you look for?

What to Consider in a Dog Bed

First off you need to observe your dogs behavior. Does he like to stay warm under the blankets? Does he like to be able to rest his head with a view of the entire room? Does he avoid the bed because he needs to cool off? These behaviors will help you narrow down your search for the ideal dog bed.

Some Of The Benefits of a High Quality Dog Bed

The type of dog bed you choose depends on your canine and its preferences. Picking the right dog bed can be a big help with allergy relief and clean up. It can give you a main area where the majority of the shedding and/or dander is contained.

For older dogs, or dogs with problems, thick orthopedic mattresses filled with medical-grade foam or even a boxspring are ideal. Some even come heated but if not you can buy a heating pad. Some pads are warmed in the microwave and some plug in. The type you choose will depend on where the bed will go and how long the pad needs to stay heated. Older dogs enjoy sleeping more and playing less.

A dog bed allows your pet to have his own space, a place where he can curl up, relax and sleep. A hound that sleeps in a tight curled up position might prefer a round bed with sides. Dogs don”t like to feel exposed especially when they”re trying to sleep. In this case you might look at a bolster bed with a high back. This gives your dog a safe, cozy haven as well as being ideal for a nice pillow to rest his head. It can also prevent drafts and can protect your walls from damage while your dog sleeps.

If you cannot measure your dog when he is laying down, you can also measure from the base of the neck to the base of the tail and then add 5 inches.

More traditional-style cushioned outdoor beds are made of tough polyester and resist mildew and fungus. However if your dog is extremely sensitive to cold or suffering from arthritis, a heated dog bed might provide the extra comfort he needs. Similar to humans, dogs also experience changes as they age. Their joints can stiffen, or their bones become thinner.

A strenuous day can mean an evening of discomfort with a pulled muscle or painful joints. A good night”s sleep in a quality dog bed will help your pet recover. When a dog owner thinks about what products will be needed for their new pet, a high quality dog bed should be well up on the list.

About The Author

Steve Dolan is a dog lover and long time dog owner. For more information about dog beds click Dog Beds and Puppy Beds, and for more about dog health and keeping your dog happy click Dogs and Puppies Online.

By Matthew Homfray

Despite many years of selective breeding, hip dysplasia remains one of the commonest orthopaedic diseases of dogs. It is often confused with osteoarthritis of the hips in older dogs which is incorrect; hip dysplasia is a developmental disease that can start within the first few weeks of life, whereas osteoarthritis is the consequence. Dogs with hip dysplasia usually fall into two categories when first being presented to the veterinarian for this condition:

1. When they are less than 12 months old, and pain arises due to the joint laxity, the key initiating factor in hip dysplasia.
2. When they are over 2 years old, and pain is due to osteoarthritis caused by the hip dysplasia.

Between these two stages, symptoms often decrease. This is because the joint laxity causes thickening of the joint capsule and surrounding tissues, thereby restricting movement. Increased muscular support also helps to mask the symptoms by providing external support.

It is well documented that developmental skeletal problems tend to occur in larger breeds of dogs, with force through the joint directly proportional to bodyweight. However, genes are not the only cause. Factors such as diet, bodyweight and exercise play a crucial role. It has been suggested that as few as 24% of young dogs with severe signs of hip dysplasia on xrays will actually develop symptoms of the disease if managed appropriately with regard to the factors mentioned above.

So, what are the signs to look out for?

Symptoms may range from mild stiffness on getting up, or a reluctance to jump, to the classic wiggle seen as the dog rotates its pelvis as it is walking, to reduce the extension of the hip which is painful.

On examination by a veterinarian, younger animals may show increased joint laxity, essentially looseness of the ball (femoral head) in the socket (acetabulum). Older animals typically show reduced flexibility of the hip joints, with a grating sound produced on manipulation of the joint (crepitus) and muscle wastage of the hindlimbs.

One must also bear in mind that there are other diseases that can affect dogs of this age, such as diseases of the nervous system (e.g. lumbosacral stenosis, degenerative myelopathy). Though rarer than hip dysplasia, they must be considered before making a diagnosis.

How is diagnosis confirmed by the veterinarian?

1. Clinical examination. Though joint laxity in the hips can often be felt with the dog conscious, it can be painful and therefore is best performed with the dog under general anesthetic or heavy sedation. This will also reduce the effects of muscle tension. There are 3 tests that vets can perform on the anesthetized dog to diagnose hip dysplasia: the Barlow test, the Bardens test and the Ortolani test. These tests invariably involve applying pressure and manipulating the hip in a certain direction to cause partial of full dislocation of the femoral head.

2. Xrays. Good quality, well positioned radiographs are required to assess hips for dysplasia and general anesthesia is a necessity to achieve this. If a dog is to be used for breeding, it is often hip scored prior to doing so. This is often done in the absence of any symptoms at all, in perfectly healthy dogs. The radiographs are then sent off to the national Hip Dysplasia Scheme assessors for examination, where the hip joints are scrutinized to predict the likelihood of the disease occurring.

My dog has been diagnosed with hip dysplasia. What are the management options?

This is relatively straight forward. Dogs can either be treated conservatively (without surgery) or surgically. Conservative management is NOT doing nothing, it should be a PROACTIVE option. A programme should be designed for the individual dog to address weight control, exercise management, physiotherapy and pain control.

CONSERVATIVE MANAGEMENT

1. Weight Control

Excessive weight should be prevented in puppies, and adults should be maintained at or below normal adult bodyweight. Simple weight reduction has been shown to result in a significant improvement in lameness in adult dogs with osteoarthritis secondary to hip dysplasia.

2. Exercise Management

A suitable level of exercise should be determined for each individual dog to maintain muscle development and fitness without exacerbating the clinical signs. Obviously this must be integrated with the owners lifestyle expectations. Regular, low impact exercise is preferable to intermittent, vigorous exercise. Several short walks a day is better than a huge walk every other day!

3. Physiotherapy

The benefits of physiotherapy in the treatment of musculoskeletal diseases of animals have only recently been recognized. Hydrotherapy is an excellent form of exercise for obese, unfit and disabled animals. This is because the buoyancy the water provides helps overcome the effects of gravity, and muscles are worked out without placing too much force through the joints.

4. Pain Control

Non steroidal anti inflammatory drugs (NSAIDS) are a key component of conservative management. They work by blocking the formation of inflammatory mediators which cause pain, specifically by blocking the cyclooxygenase enzymes COX 1 and COX 2. The modern NSAID drugs preferentially inhibit COX 2 enzymes, which reduces the side effects associated with them, such as stomach ulceration and kidney damage. The most commonly used NSAIDs are carprofen and meloxicam.

5. Nutraceuticals and cartilage protecting drugs

These are slow acting, disease modifying drugs that may help to control osteoarthritis. Orally administered forms of glucosamine sulphate and chondroitin sulphate have been shown to improve joint function in humans. Whilst the exact mechanisms of osteoarthritis may differ between dogs and humans, anecdotal evidence suggests they are beneficial and they have become popular with many veterinarians. Above all, they cannot do harm so are often prescribed, despite the absence of hard scientific evidence in their favor.

SURGICAL MANAGEMENT

Surgical treatment can be divided into preventative or salvage. Preventative treatments include the following:

1. Triple Pelvic Osteotomy (TPO)

This is indicated in young animals with painful hips that have failed to improve with conservative treatment. The operation provides stabilization of the hip, which reduces the progression of osteoarthritis. It can be performed on any age of dog, but dogs have to show minimal remodeling of the hip joint on xrays and so most that meet the criteria are less than 8 months old.

2. Perineal myectomy

This involves removing part or all of the pectineus muscle, the spasm of which is thought to cause pain in the growing dog with hip dysplasia. However, whilst this procedure does tend to produce some pain relief, it is now considered outdated by many.

3. Intertrochanteric osteotomy

Although effective in decreasing pain and reducing secondary osteoarthritis, it is less effective than TPO and there is a risk of fracturing the femur during the operation, meaning it is no longer recommended.

4. Pubic symphysiodesis

A new technique for young dogs considered to be at risk of developing hip dysplasia. The procedure is most effective in very young animals, which are usually not showing any symptoms at all, making it a controversial treatment option and not recommended at present.

Salvage options include:

1. Femoral Head & Neck Excision

This involves surgically removing the head and neck of the femur. Heavier dogs have a much poorer outcome than lighter dogs. It tends to give positive results in dogs less than 17kg in bodyweight. Obese dogs fare poorly. Younger, more active dogs can respond very well to this procedure.

2. Total Hip Replacement

This is not the solution for every dog with a painful hip. Owners must be aware that while the outcome is usually very good, complications can rarely occur and when they do they are disastrous.

The ideal candidate for a hip replacement is a well trained, sensible, medium to large breed dog, which was previously active, and has a painful hip that is unresponsive to medication. The owners should be sensible and compliant, with funds to spend not only on the surgery (which is expensive), but also on dealing with potential complications that may occur, which can be equally costly. If these criteria are not all met, it may be more appropriate to perform a femoral head and neck excision.

About The Author

Dr Matthew Homfray is one of the veterinary pet experts at www.WhyDoesMyPet.com. Our dedicated community of caring pet experts are waiting to offer you advice, second opinions and support.

By Jeff Clare

Though it”s easy for many people to make crass “hot dog” puns about the pets of others whenever dogs die in cars, making news headlines, most dog owners legitimately fear causing heatstroke in their companions. Heat stroke, a condition that is essentially when a dog (or most other mammals of that matter) is unable to purge unneeded heat from their bodies, raises the temperature of their delicate internal organs and causes massive damage to a dog”s living tissue, which can kill even the healthiest dog.

As always, the figurative ounce of prevention is a lot easier to acquire than a cure for heatstroke. Anywhere a dog could become hot without a way to cool down can be a place that causes heatstroke, as can excessive exercise. Keeping your dog”s temperature low is the best way to prevent heatstroke; allow for ventilation, leave a bowl of water, or create a shady place before leaving your dog in hot conditions.

Cars bear a special mention because cars allow a lot of to accumulate heat inside but only barely let any warmth out. On a hot day, a car can become a sweltering trap that can cause an agonizing death for any dog left inside too long. It”s best to keep your dog out of a hot car as much as possible.

The signs of heatstroke are many, but varied and very easily discerned. Such signs include: increased panting or breathing (this sort of fast panting/breathing sounds more desperate than normal panting/breathing), heightened pulse rate, and bright red gums. Dogs also tend to look hot or as if they”re wilting, just like humans do. If left untreated, heat stroke leads to shock or unconsciousness.

If your dog”s condition becomes serious (or its body temperature is around 105 degrees Fahrenheit/40 degrees Celsius, if you have a thermometer on hand), then you have to hurry to keep your dog alive. The dog will need to be moved into a cool area with good ventilation, as well as being soaked in cold water or gently sprayed with cold water from a hose if a tub of ice water isn”t immediately available. Be careful however, as once the dog”s temperature drops back down to a healthy 103 degrees Fahrenheit (39 degrees Celsius), leaving the dog in cold water any longer (the cooling process is very fast) risks causing hypothermia, so keep a close eye on your pet as he cools down after heat stroke.

Be especially protective of older and younger dogs, both of which suffer heatstroke more easily. Once your pet has stabilized and the situation seems to be over, you should still bring your dog to the veterinarian. Heatstroke has hidden effects, such as dehydration and brain damage, that may only show after the immediate danger of death is over. All in all, heat stroke is easy to prevent. With the proper precautions, there is no reason why your pet should die. All it takes is a little time and very little effort to ensure your dog”s health.

About The Author

Jeff Clare runs Dog Training News where you can read many more articles on training your dog. For more general advice on dog first aid go to Dogs And Dog News.

By Dane Stanton

So you”ve gone out and gotten yourself a furry friend that you are excited about teaching and feeding but it suddenly occurred to you that you are unsure about how to feed the ferret and you”re wondering what do ferrets eat. That is a superb question because like every living thing on earth, the diet plays a huge factor in the health as well as the quality of life that it will have. What do ferrets eat when they are young? What do ferrets eat when they are older? What do ferrets eat when they are babies? If these are among your questions, keep reading and we”ll touch on those subjects.

What Do Ferrets Eat as Babies?

What do ferrets eat as babies is a great question because likely if you”ve owned a traditional pet like a cat or a dog you likely had to feed them puppy food or get supplemental milk from the pet store and ferrets are just not that hard to feed in that respect. Baby ferrets feed off the mother and are weaned off by the breeder or pet store before you ever get one however, with that said, once you have the baby ferret he is already used to a diet made up of pellets.

What Do Ferrets Eat as Adults?

What do ferrets eat as adults is another wonderful question however it is not complicated with a ferret like some other species of animals. The only thing ferrets don”t fair well with in the way of pet foods are foods that contain fish meal and ferrets really don”t like this at all. Try to steer clear from any fish based food when purchasing your ferret food pellets and as a matter of fact, ferrets like shaped food better than pellets that look a little like rabbit food.

An excellent quality cat food that is extremely high in protein can be fed also to a ferret but they really need a high percentage of protein and typically you should look for food that contains at least 25-30% protein content. Always be sure to stay away from foods that are easily attainable at a grocery store or grocery outlet as they are generally very cheaply made and don”t provide the proper nutrition for a ferret.

What Do Ferrets Eat as Treats?

Ferrets do well on a treat based system when teaching them things but there are a few things to know before feeding your ferret any treats. Acceptable treats would be things such as fruits and vegetables but not too many! What do ferrets eat that are bad for them? Always stay away from chocolate, dog food, any type of raw meat and dairy products.

About The Author

If you want to learn more where did ferrets come from please visit our site which is free to the public. You”ll find the best tips on everything to do with baby ferrets