Aqua Articles

March 5, 2007

Resolving Your Dog Barking Problem

Filed under: Other Pets — gregwatson @ 11:10 pm

By Leo Enoch

Although Barking is a natural behaviour, as it is a means of communication for the dog just like whining, howling and growling, too much barking do create stress and unnecessary pressure on you as the owner and the people living around you.

In fact, there are some health investigation report conducted by various industry indicated that the sound of continuous barking dog was one of the most disruptive and stressful noice to human being.

On the other side, dog’’s barking is encouraged and not considered a behaviour problem as it can signify territorial protection and its guarding behaviour which is a natural trait as long as it is not done overboard.

How do you stop your dog barking problems, here are few tips that you can do to help your dog from barking excessively:

1. Dogs normally barked when they are triggered by something or someone or any other stimulus that can make them excited or become overly protective with their territorial.

Some of these stimulus are: the sound of other dogs barking, the sound of thunder or machineries, ringing phones, people shouting, and many other noises that may triger your dog to barks.

If this is the case, one of the fastest and easiest way to stop your dog from barking is to simply remove the stimulus or put barrier between the stimulus and your dog.

2. Your dog may keep on barking when he is confine to a certain location. if this is the case, your dog may be experiencing separation anxiety.

If this is the case, you can provide him with a few toys to keep him busy while confine to that particular place or what you can do is to take him for an exercise or walk by the park. This will help him overcome the separation anxiety.

3. If your dog is an over aggressive pet, then it might just be possible that he or she may bark at smallest hint of provocation such as any stranger walking pass your property.

If this is the case a re-conditioning of the environment may be needed. You can reprimand him. It is good to bring him out more to familiarise with the environment.

4. Other ways which may help your dogs from excessive barking include intervention such as spraying your dog with water or using high frequency sounds that interrupt barking. These devices can be quite helpful and can be controlled by you or automatically when the dog barks.

5. I personaly do not really agree with de-barking your dog and the use of shock collar. I believe that with good training drills, you will be able to solve the barking problems.

Dog training requires patience, money and time, however doing it correctly will create a more lasting and meaningful relationship with the owner.

You can train your dog yourselves by getting a correct training manual. The misconception that pet owner has, is that it is difficult to train yourself.

Well this is not true, sometime training your dog yourself is one of the most effective method and the fastest way to solve your dog barking problem.

About The Author

For Free Information and Tips on Proven, Simple and Effective Dog Training Leo Enoch highly recommended You visit:

www.DogTrainingSolution.com

Should You Declaw Your Cat?

Filed under: Other Pets — gregwatson @ 8:11 pm

By Rona Limsy

A cat’’s main defense and protection comes from its claws. However, it is now becoming increasingly convenient and popular for cat owners to declaw their cats. This is usually done to prevent the cat from destroying furniture, curtains and scratching humans.

Are these reasons strong enough for you to decide to declaw your cat? It is indeed a convenience for the cat owner but many cats suffer after the surgery and many will end up with a biting habit as this has become the only defense it has. Even well meaning and reputed vets do not always do a good job of declawing.

Do you know that the declawing procedure is not merely a “nail removing” process? It is a surgical process which requires anesthesia. Your cat’’s first joint of every digit on your cat’’s forefeet is surgically amputated. It also involves the vet surgically separating entirely the distant finger bone (distal phalanx) from the middle finger bone.

Here are some possible situations you will see after your cat has been declawed:

Phantom Pain Throughout Its Life
Because a declawing surgery is basically a mutilation process which causes much post-operative pain to your cat, your cat may experience “phantom pain” during its life, even years after the surgery.

Biting To Defend Itself
As it has lost its only natural defense and protection, your cat may resort to biting you or your stuff to issue a warning or to show aggression. If you react to this by scolding him (which is a natural reaction), this will only aggravate the situation as your cat feels it needs to bite more to defend itself against your anger.

Unsafe To Go Outdoors
Your cat will no longer be able to defend itself if it should face any dangers outdoors. So it would mean you must take extra precautions to keep it indoors at all times.

Post-Operative Complications
Many vets are not trained to do the declawing surgery properly. Most of them use dog’’s nail trimmers, when they should really be using a scalpel blade. A dog’’s nail trimmer merely cuts the end and middle bone but does not separate them properly. It leaves germinal tissue which may eventually grow into an abnormal claw, causing a piece of bone to stick out through the skin. It can go on to turn into bone infection and permanent problems with your cat’’s foot.

Given the pain that your cat will suffer from a declawing surgery, declawing should really be an absolute last resort. However, there are some instances where I personally feel that declawing may be truly justified:

An Untrainable Cat

Each cat has its own character but most can be trained to use a cat scratch post. If however, even after engaging the services of a cat behaviorist, your cat is still unwilling to be trained, then you may have to resort to declawing to save your home!

To Protect Your Family

If you have elderly living with you and if your cat can”t be trained, then you may need to declaw it. The skin of the elderly is more fragile and may tear more easily. Because of their age, the skin may also take more time to heal.

Likewise, if you have family living with you who are terminally ill, a cat’’s scratch can cause a severe negative reaction to the body. For example, a cat’’s scratch on a person who suffers from an advanced stage of diabetes may lead to infection as wounds are difficult to heal. In serious cases, a simple cut on a diabetic person’’s foot can even lead to amputation if it doesn”t heal in time.

Children are another reason why you may want to resort to declawing. Very young children do not understand how to handle a cat properly. A cat who experiences rough or improper handling will scratch to defend itself.

If you do decide to declaw your cat, do seek out the best vet you can find for the surgery. It is true that no matter how good the vet is, your cat will definitely suffer pain after the surgery. However, a good vet trained in declawing, makes all the difference to the degree of how much your cat will suffer in the post-operative days.

If you know of someone who has sent their cat for declawing and their cat suffered no complications, ask for a referral.

Don”t be shy to ask the vet questions such as whether he is using dog’’s nail trimmers or the more sophisticated scalpel blade method (which is approved by The American Animal Hospital Association) and to ask him what you must do for post-surgery care.

About The Author

For more information on declawing and how to take care of your cat, visit http://www.My-Pet-Cat.com

Aggressive Iguana Behavior

Filed under: Other Pets — gregwatson @ 7:39 pm

By Dane Stanton

An iguana is a fascinating lizard pet that when handled properly and gently from the time they are received, are not aggressive at all. When an iguana does show aggression he shows signs of fight or flight syndrome and will hide away or try to fight.

Like every other living being, aggression shows signs of extreme discomfort to the point that the living thing believe it has no other choice but to fight or flight. It’’s simply a defense mechanism and in some animals, it is mating behavior. The iguana is also included in this group in that the male iguana will show aggression around certain hormones but that will be discussed later on in the article.

Handling an Iguana

The handling of an iguana plays a pivotal role in the aggression levels of and care should be taken when handling them from the time they are first brought into a home. There is a very incredible thing about an iguana that too few people know about and that is the third eye they have on the back of the head. This third eye plays a part in your pet’’s aggression at times because when you reach for your lizard from the back, he perceives it to be a threat as all he sees from this eye is shadows.

Approach the iguana from the front and speak softly as harsh treatment does not affect iguanas in a positive way, in fact it has no effect on them except to provoke aggression. To avoid aggression in your iguana, always try to pick it up or pet it from the front.

Females and The Iguana Aggression

Although it may sound strange, female handlers and owners of a male iguana can display signs of aggression during the female menstrual cycle. Sounds crazy but its true. This is believed to be because of a specific pheromone that is emitted by the female during this time.

This ‘’scent” that the iguana sense and cause the aggression can be abated with a replacement mate in his environment such as a small stuffed toy or even a rubber glove will calm him and he will be less aggressive. Iguanas that show aggression can be taught to be feel comfortable by you with some patience and as stated earlier, approaching it from the front. When the iguana allows you to pick it up, always let it sit on your forearm or back of the hand so it is in a position that it feels safe.

About The Author

If you want to learn more about Iguana’’s please visit our site which is free to the public. You”ll find the best tips on everything to do with Iguana’’s

March 2, 2007

How to Give Your Cat Medicine

Filed under: Other Pets — gregwatson @ 12:52 pm

By Jude Wright

Have you ever tried to medicate a cat? If you have, you probably have a few scratches to prove it! Cats only want to do something if it’’s their idea. And, it’’s never their idea to have a pill pushed down their throat. So, how do you manage getting that medicine into his body without coming out on the wrong side of his claws?

If the medicine is a pill, the easiest way to feed it to her is by putting it into her food. Of course, you”ll have to crush it into powder form first. Using two spoons, put the pill into one and use the back of the other to break it down. Then, mix it into her canned cat food. If you only feed her dry food, she”ll really think she’’s getting a treat with doctored up canned food!

If the medicine is a capsule and not a pill, you have it made. All you have to do is take the capsule apart and mix it into the canned cat food.

If you have a sick cat, he won”t want to eat. In this case, you might want to purchase a pet piller. Your veterinarian will have these available for you. They are plastic rods that the pill fits into. You press the plunger to direct the pill into kitty’’s throat. Be careful that you don”t push the rod too far or you could injure him.

Now, getting the pet piller into his mouth is another thing. He won”t want it in his mouth at all! If he is still a kitten, you can wrap him in a towel so that it’’s easier to handle him. You can try using a towel with an older cat and it “might” work. Otherwise, you”ll just have to hold on tight and not let him loose.

If you”re afraid of hurting your cat or kitten with the rod and plunger system, you can try to give him the pill by hand. This is NOT easy! Tuck her under your arm to hold her still and open her mouth by pushing gently on each side of it. Put the pill as far back into her mouth as you can manage and hold her mouth closed for a minute or so. She should swallow it then, if she hasn”t already.

If your cat has been sick for a while, it may be easier to give him his medicine. He won”t feel like putting up much of a fight.

Treat your kitty gently while giving her the pill or other medications. She’’s never going to like the medication-taking process, but if you are gentle, you won”t have her running from you every time you enter the room.

About The Author

Jude Wright is the owner of two cats who she treats as her babies. Visit CatAndKittenCare.com for information on cat and kitten health, cat breeds and more.

March 1, 2007

How To Bathe A Cat - A Step-By-Step Guide

Filed under: Other Pets — gregwatson @ 11:46 pm

By Rona Limsy

Many cat owners can identify with the ordeal they have to face each time they need to bathe their cat. Generally, if cats are rarely bathed, they will become easily frightened and try all means to escape while you try to bathe them. It’’s quite common for cat owners to get cat scratches during a cat bath!

If you start bathing your kitten when he is about 12 to 16 weeks old and then once every 3 to 4 months, he will become used to the routine and will not resist badly when you try to bathe him.

For adult cats who rarely get bathed, bathtime can be an ordeal for both cat and owner. To reduce this ordeal to some degree, being prepared and having someone to assist you will help a lot.

Here are the items you should have ready before you start:

- Nail clippers
- Cat brush
- Non-slip metal or stiff plastic screen for cat to stand on
- Mineral oil or eye ointment
- Cotton balls
- Two washcloths
- A few large towels
- Cat-safe shampoo
- Coat conditioner

HERE”S A STEP-BY-STEP GUIDE ON HOW TO BATHE YOUR CAT

Decide Where You Want to Bathe Your Cat - The bathtub, bathroom sink or kitchen sink are all suitable, but you must have a spray attachment at whichever choice you select. If you don”t want to have to lean over while bathing your cat, the kitchen sink will be a better choice.

Close Off and Clear The Area - If possible, close all doors and openings so that your cat doesn”t run out if he should panic. Clear all breakable items in the area as a panicked cat can easily run over your stuff and break them.

Set Your Attitude and Mindset - The key to reducing stress to your cat (and yourself) during bathtime is to be patient, sympathetic and be loving to your cat. Impatience and an angry tone is only going to make your cat more frightened and he will react accordingly.

Allocate more time when you bathe your cat so that you don”t find yourself frustrated trying to handle your cat and rushing for a deadline at the same time.

Oh, and another thing, be prepared to get very wet!

Trim Claws - Gently clip his claws. This will help to reduce scratches on you if he should panic.

Brush Fur - Gently brush his fur to remove as much loose fur as possible.

Protect The Eyes - Place 1 or 2 drops of mineral oil or eye ointment in each of your cat’’s eyes. This will prevent any chemical irritation if shampoo should get into the eyes.

Protect The Ear Canal - Place a cotton ball in each ear to prevent water from entering his ear canal.

Place The Non-Slip Screen into your bathtub or sink and then gently carry your cat and place him on the screen.

Wet the Fur - Turn on the water slowly and let it run until the water is warm (not hot). Hold the sprayer very close to your cat’’s skin so that the water doesn”t spray all over him and make him frightened.

If someone is helping you, he/she can hold up the front legs while you wet the fur on the stomach and between the legs.

Apply Shampoo & Rinse - Ensure that your cat’’s fur is sufficiently wet before shampooing, so that the shampoo can lather easily. Start lathering from the neck and work backwards towards the tail.

To wash your cat’’s face, wet a washcloth and add a tiny amount of shampoo. Gently wipe all over the face, avoiding the eye area. To wash the eye area, wet a cotton ball with clean water and gently wipe around the eye area. To rinse off the lather on the face, wet another clean washcloth and gently wipe off the lather.

Make sure to rinse and remove all traces of shampoo from your cat’’s body and face. Shampoo residue will cause irritation and itching.

If your cat is extremely dirty, you may have to shampoo it and rinse again.

Apply Coat Conditioner & Rinse - Coat conditioner is especially recommended for long-haired cats. It conditions the hair and makes brushing the hair smoother. Rinse thoroughly. The coat should feel squeaky clean and not slick or slippery after rinsing.

Drying Off - Run your hands down the back, legs and tail to remove excess water. Use a large towel to scoop your cat up, leaving only the head outside the towel. Place on a cabinet or table and gently towel dry.

Grab another clean dry towel, wrap him up with it and hold him. Hold him this way until he warms up. This also helps to calm the cat down.

If you are running out of time and would like to use the hair dryer, set it to a low or cool setting. If you set it to high and hot, your cat will become very frightened. Make sure not to point the hair dryer at his face and always hold the hair dryer at least 1 foot away from its coat.

Brush The Hair - When the hair is mostly dry, you can start to gently brush the hair.

About The Author

For more information on taking care of your cat, visit http://www.My-Pet-Cat.com

A Correct Diet is Vital for Rabbits

Filed under: Other Pets — gregwatson @ 11:34 pm

By Matthew Homfray

Many people keep rabbits rather than dogs and cats because rabbits can be happily left at home alone all day while their owners are out at work. Though often happy on their own, they are by nature social creatures that enjoy the company of their owners and other animals in the household. They are best kept in pairs because they form strong bonds with each other. They will play with toys, seek out and follow humans, and enjoy being stroked. Most rabbits will use a litter tray and so can live indoors in the house, but they can sometimes be destructive.

A rabbits natural response to pain or distress is to sit quietly, preferably hidden from view. As a result, many diseases and causes of suffering can be easily overlooked. Though the life expectancy of a domestic rabbit is potentially 10-12 years, few make it to this age. The sad thing is, many of these diseases are preventable.

An incorrect diet can be the underlying cause to many health problems. Rabbits are strict herbivores that eat a variety of plants in the wild. Although they prefer grass and leaves, they can digest more fibrous foods and are able to survive on sparse vegetation. They do NOT need a high calorie diet, as their digestive system has evolved to use bacterial fermentation to break down fibre and form nutrients.

Their teeth are continually growing and being worn down, to cut and grind food before it enters the stomach. Any undigested food that reaches the colon is split into large and small particles, and sent in opposite directions. The small particles pass into the cecum, which is the fermentation chamber full of bacteria. These bacteria break down the particles to form volatile fatty acids, amino acids, vitamins and other nutrients. Large particles that are difficult to break down pass rapidly through the colon, are compressed, and are excreted as hard fecal pellets. Once or twice a day, the motility of the colon changes and the cecum (fermentation chamber) contracts to expel its contents as slightly larger, softer fecal pellets. These are known as cecotropes.

Rabbits eat these pellets of feces, the cecotropes. They are often consumed as they come out of the anus, and are a rich source of nutrients. If this cycle is broken, it disrupts the healthy bacteria that live in the rabbits digestive tract. In very young rabbits, this can cause death by enterotoxemia, i.e. overproduction of toxins by a population of bacteria that is unbalanced and out of control. It can take a while for a rabbit to achieve a stable healthy gut flora (bacterial population), hence why young rabbits are so susceptible.

So, what should I be feeding my rabbit?

The best foods for rabbits are grass and wild plants as they are palatable, low in calories, high in fibre and wear the teeth down. Leafy green vegetables are very good, such as spinach, cabbage, kale and carrot tops. Remember that when a new food is introduced, it can cause a flurry of cecotropes, which must not be interpreted as diarrhea. On the contrary, it is perfectly normal and healthy!

Low calorie but high fibre foods are GOOD, high calorie but low fibre foods are BAD!

Rabbits on a low fibre diet tend to produce softer cecotropes which can stick to the fur around the anus, especially if the fur is fluffy. If this same diet is high in calories, as many of the commercial ones often are, then the rabbit is more likely to be fat and unable to reach their anus to eat the cecotropes. The end result is that a foul smelling mass of matted fecal material accumulates under the tail which is unpleasant for both the rabbit and the owner. Moreover, the skin under the matted feces becomes sore and the smelly, moist area attracts flies. This then leads to flystrike, which is very distressing and often fatal.

Are teeth problems related to diet?

Dental problems are possibly the commonest reason why vets see rabbits. There is universal agreement amongst experts that mixed muesli-type diets are at least partly responsible for these teeth problems. Although these types of rabbit food are cheap, tasty and convenient, they are totally unsuitable for rabbits. They are high in calories and low in fibre, and even if the manufacturer claims to have a balanced mixture of ingredients, many rabbits will cherry pick certain bits from the bowl. This means that certain tasty components such as peas or maize, which are very calcium deficient, are selectively eaten while less palatable ingredients are ignored.

The continual growth of the rabbits teeth is reliant on calcium intake, so when a rabbits diet is deficient, it draws the calcium from its bones instead. This disrupts the tooth structure and can lead to wonky teeth, abscesses, blocked tear ducts, osteoporosis and spinal problems. In addition, rabbits with poor teeth cannot groom themselves properly and so can get mite infestations, leading to scaling and itchy skin.

Poor teeth also make the rabbit unable to eat hay, so the proportion of fibre in the diet decreases and causes digestive problems, as discussed earlier. By and large, if a rabbit is eating large amounts of hay it is an indicator that it has healthy teeth.

About The Author

Dr Matthew Homfray is one of the veterinary pet experts at www.WhyDoesMyPet.com. Our dedicated community of caring pet experts are waiting to offer you advice, second opinions and support.

The 5 Essentials To Pet Supplies

Filed under: Other Pets — gregwatson @ 11:34 pm

By Joshua Spaulding

Often times owners of pets go overboard with the pet supplies they purchase. Obviously you want to show your love and affection for your pet, but you can easily do so without going overboard. It does depend on the type of pet you have, but for most pets there is a border between too much and the essentials. Here are 5 essentials to pet supplies.

1. Food and water bowls - For every dog, cat, bird and so on, having a food and water bowl is absolutely necessary. Dog food and cat food is something that will be given to your pets on a daily basis and will most likely be the object used most, aside from the leash possibly. Because of this, do not be afraid to spend a little more on the bowls than other items. Try and find a stainless steel dish or something that is sturdy and will last awhile.

2. Bed - While not everyone considers a bed an absolute necessity, providing a bed is very much recommended for your pet. If your dog or cat has a bed, they can claim it as their own home. This is a place where they can sleep, go to when they are scared and be a place where they can go to get away for a while.

3. Grooming supplies - Just as with humans, pets fur and toenails grow. It is your job to keep your pet maintained and keep them healthy. By researching and shopping around, you can find the best shampoos for your pet, what types of brushes to use and how big of nail clippers to use. These pet supplies will keep your pet looking clean and lovable.

4. Traveling supplies - If you are not the type of person to travel around or bring your pet when you do travel, go ahead and disregard this note. If you do bring your pet with you, having pet supplies when you travel is essential. Some things you can bring with you that you use at home, such as bowls for the dog food and cat food, the leash and possibly the bed. However, it is worth investing into a kennel, especially if you are flying your pet to a different location. You may want to consider purchasing a bag of some sort as well to keep all of your pets toys and grooming supplies in.

5. Toys - Having a few toys for your pets to amuse themselves with and play with is absolutely essential. However, notice how I said a few. There is no point in buying your pet a hundred toys because this will only clutter your house with objects that will not get used. Giving your pet a few different toys so they have options will be sufficient enough.

As mentioned, the types of pet supplies you purchase will vary depending on the pet you have. If you have a fish, you will need an aquarium and aquarium accessories. If you have a dog or cat, you will want food bowls and toys. Regardless, it is important that you provide your pet with the essentials when it comes to pet supplies.

About The Author

For a various selection of Pet Supplies, please visit the fastest growing Online Shopping Mall at MerchantLand.com. We offer the top brands in Pet Supplies at very reasonable prices.

History of the Dog

Filed under: Other Pets — gregwatson @ 11:18 pm

By Daniel Millions

There is no incongruity in the idea that in the very earliest period of man’’s habitation of this world he made a friend and companion of some sort of aboriginal representative of our modern dog, and that in return for its aid in protecting him from wilder animals, and in guarding his sheep and goats, he gave it a share of his food, a corner in his dwelling, and grew to trust it and care for it.

Probably the animal was originally little else than an unusually gentle jackal, or an ailing wolf driven by its companions from the wild marauding pack to seek shelter in alien surroundings. One can well conceive the possibility of the partnership beginning in the circumstance of some helpless whelps being brought home by the early hunters to be tended and reared by the women and children. Dogs introduced into the home as playthings for the children would grow to regard themselves, and be regarded, as members of the family

In nearly all parts of the world traces of an indigenous dog family are found, the only exceptions being the West Indian Islands, Madagascar, the eastern islands of the Malayan Archipelago, New Zealand, and the Polynesian Islands, where there is no sign that any dog, wolf, or fox has existed as a true aboriginal animal. I

In the ancient Oriental lands, and generally among the early Mongolians, the dog remained savage and neglected for centuries, prowling in packs, gaunt and wolf-like, as it prowls today through the streets and under the walls of every Eastern city. No attempt was made to allure it into human companionship or to improve it into docility. It is not until we come to examine the records of the higher civilisations of Assyria and Egypt that we discover any distinct varieties of canine form.

The dog was not greatly appreciated in Palestine, and in both the Old and New Testaments it is commonly spoken of with scorn and contempt as an “unclean beast.” Even the familiar reference to the Sheepdog in the Book of Job “But now they that are younger than I have me in derision, whose fathers I would have disdained to set with the dogs of my flock” is not without a suggestion of contempt, and it is significant that the only biblical allusion to the dog as a recognised companion of man occurs in the apocryphal Book of Tobit (v. 16), “So they went forth both, and the young man’’s dog with them.”

The great multitude of different breeds of the dog and the vast differences in their size, points, and general appearance are facts which make it difficult to believe that they could have had a common ancestry.

One thinks of the difference between the Mastiff and the Japanese Spaniel, the Deerhound and the fashionable Pomeranian, the St. Bernard and the Miniature Black and Tan Terrier, and is perplexed in contemplating the possibility of their having descended from a common progenitor.

Yet the disparity is no greater than that between the Shire horse and the Shetland pony, the Shorthorn and the Kerry cattle, or the Patagonian and the Pygmy; and all dog breeders know how easy it is to produce a variety in type and size by studied selection.

In order properly to understand this question it is necessary first to consider the identity of structure in the wolf and the dog. This identity of structure may best be studied in a comparison of the osseous system, or skeletons, of the two animals, which so closely resemble each other that their transposition would not easily be detected.

The spine of the dog consists of seven vertebrae in the neck, thirteen in the back, seven in the loins, three sacral vertebrae, and twenty to twenty-two in the tail. In both the dog and the wolf there are thirteen pairs of ribs, nine true and four false. Each has forty-two teeth.

They both have five front and four hind toes, while outwardly the common wolf has so much the appearance of a large, bare-boned dog, that a popular description of the one would serve for the other.

Nor are their habits different. The wolf’’s natural voice is a loud howl, but when confined with dogs he will learn to bark. Although he is carnivorous, he will also eat vegetables, and when sickly he will nibble grass. In the chase, a pack of wolves will divide into parties, one following the trail of the quarry, the other endeavouring to intercept its retreat, exercising a considerable amount of strategy, a trait which is exhibited by many of our sporting dogs and terriers when hunting in teams.

A further important point of resemblance between the Canis lupus and the Canis familiaris lies in the fact that the period of gestation in both species is sixty-three days.

There are from three to nine cubs in a wolf’’s litter, and these are blind for twenty-one days. They are suckled for two months, but at the end of that time they are able to eat half-digested flesh disgorged for them by their dam or even their sire.

The native dogs of all regions approximate closely in size, coloration, form, and habit to the native wolf of those regions. Of this most important circumstance there are far too many instances to allow of its being looked upon as a mere coincidence. Sir John Richardson, writing in 1829, observed that “the resemblance between the North American wolves and the domestic dog of the Indians is so great that the size and strength of the wolf seems to be the only difference.

It has been suggested that the one incontrovertible argument against the lupine relationship of the dog is the fact that all domestic dogs bark, while all wild Canidae express their feelings only by howls. But the difficulty here is not so great as it seems, since we know that jackals, wild dogs, and wolf pups reared by bitches readily acquire the habit. On the other hand, domestic dogs allowed to run wild forget how to bark, while there are some which have not yet learned so to express themselves.

The presence or absence of the habit of barking cannot, then, be regarded as an argument in deciding the question concerning the origin of the dog. This stumbling block consequently disappears, leaving us in the position of agreeing with Darwin, whose final hypothesis was that “it is highly probable that the domestic dogs of the world have descended from two good species of wolf (C. lupus and C. latrans), and from two or three other doubtful species of wolves namely, the European, Indian, and North African forms; from at least one or two South American canine species; from several races or species of jackal; and perhaps from one or more extinct species”; and that the blood of these, in some cases mingled together, flows in the veins of our domestic breeds.

About The Author

New free english bulldog and other breed pet classifieds website with a large pit bull forum.

Does Your Dog Have A Healthy Diet?

Filed under: Other Pets — gregwatson @ 9:45 pm

By Matthew Homfray

Every owner these days seems to have their own ideas on what constitutes a healthy balanced diet for their dog. How many of them are reliably imformed though? The following questions are designed to critically assess your dogs diet. Please read them, for your dogs sake.

1) How many times a day do you feed your dog?

There is no set rule for adult dogs but the general consensus is that twice a day is a sensible amount. Some owners feed once a day, some three times a day. How much your dog is fed is far more important than how often really, but it is useful to set guidelines nevertheless. The reason many experts suggest twice a day rather than once a day is that once a day feeding encourages the dog to gorge his or her food as he or she is so hungry, having last had a meal a full 24 hours ago. Eating too quickly can cause reflex regurgitation or vomiting. Also it has been theorized that deep chested large breed dogs are more likely to suffer from a twisted stomach (gastric dilatation and volvulus), a life threatening condition, if they are fed one large meal daily rather than two smaller meals.

Clearly more active dogs will burn far more calories than others but these variables are best reflected in portion size rather than frequency. Some dogs with medical conditions may benefit from multiple meals of smaller portions, for example those recovering from gastroenteritis. Puppies must be fed more often than adult dogs as they have a higher metabolic rate, around 4 times a day from weaning to around 5 months old, then drop down to 3 times a day until 7 months old, then down to twice a day thereafter.

2) Is your dogs diet manufactured specifically for dogs or do you give human food or food from the butchers?

There is a misconception around that human food is higher quality than dog food, and therefore better for them. This is by and large nonsense. Reputable dog foods are formulated after extensive trials by pet food companies to provide the mixture of protein, carbohydrate and fat that suits canine physiology best. Dogs on balanced dog food diets do not get nutritional deficiencies but dogs on human food do. Certain human titbits can play havoc with your dogs digestive tract, chocolate being a prime example.

Your dog need ingest nothing other than a complete dog food and water to have a complete and balanced diet. Remember, dogs do not need variety in their diet! They are perfectly happy having the same boring looking meal every day! So keep it simple and safe, feed your dog either a complete dog food (dry or tinned, dry is better for their teeth) or standard dog biscuits and tinned dog meat together. Of course human leftovers every now and again or a bit of tripe or heart from the butcher is fine, but do not make it the day to day diet.

3) Which is the best dog food to choose?

There are so many different brands of dog food on the market, the best one is basically a matter of opinion. Certainly palatability is a factor, there is no point in purchasing a particular food if your dog cannot stand it, although this is occasionally a necessity in dogs with food allergies, for example. Rather than recommending you a specific brand, we suggest that you choose one which adheres to the criteria below.

Dog foods labeled as complete and balanced must meet standards established by the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO), either by meeting a nutrient profile or by passing a feeding trial. There are now two separate nutrient profiles for dogs - one for growth (puppies) and one for maintenance (adults). Maximum levels of intake of some nutrients have been established for the first time because of the concern that overnutrition, rather than undernutrition, is a bigger problem with many pet foods today. The standards include recommendations on protein, fat, fat soluble vitamins, water soluble vitamins, and mineral content of foods. If you are prepared to get technical, you should choose a food that comes closest to AAFCO recommendations.

In summary, consider the following points.

Choose a food that suits your dogs age, breed and overall health. Most big pet food companies will have different foods for small vs large breeds, and puppies vs adults. Dogs with medical conditions may be recommended special prescription diets.

Choose a food that come closest to AAFCO recommendations.

The ingredients contains the truth about a particular food. Everything else is there only for marketing purposes.

There are no legal and scientific definitions for the terms premium, super premium, quality, or natural.

Use dry matter numbers to evaluate and compare foods.

The source of ingredients (e.g. animal vs vegetable) does not matter, except in the case of food allergies.

Avoid supplementation. All commercial dog foods have more than enough protein, fat, vitamins, and minerals. Too many minerals can lead to severe skeletal problems in growing dogs.

Feeding your dog a good food incorrectly can lead to significant problems. For example, overfeeding puppies can lead to serious skeletal problems. Neutered dogs require portions 20% smaller than unneutered dogs or they will put on weight.

4) How many times a day do you give your dog treats?

It is hard to resist those puppy dog eyes begging you for a little piece of what you are eating. Indeed treats promote a special bond between you and your dog and it gives such pleasure when they have a delicious morsel to savor. The key word is MODERATION. If you are giving your dog regular treats, you must subtract this amount from the portion given at meal time to maintain a appropriate calorie intake. As a rule of thumb the amount of treats should never exceed 10% of your dogs daily food intake. It is far easier to make your dog obedient if you reserve treats for rewarding good behavior rather than just giving them willy nilly, where they become meaningless.

5) What do your dogs treats consist of?

Quality dog treats are usually far healthier and lower in calories than table scraps. Many dogs are fed scraps habitually from the table while families are eating, particularly by children. This only encourages further begging and feeding with often unsuitable high calorie treats which are forgotten about when it comes to measuring the dogs daily portion(s).

About The Author

Dr Matthew Homfray is one of the veterinary pet experts at www.WhyDoesMyPet.com. Our dedicated community of caring pet experts are waiting to offer you advice, second opinions and support.

« Newer Posts